#1 Tool For Fighting EHD!!!

All right guys. Here it is. A Rigid 24" Catheter and a 60 cc syringe. I have attached a picture.





Here is my story!



In the last 2 weeks I have lost over 20 adult deer to the EHD/Blue Tongue Virus. When I first contracted the disease I did not know what I had. But, It did not take long for me to realize what I was dealing with. I had listened to a lot of people tell me there is no cure and that you just have to let it run it's course. Well it was not long before I could not just sit there and watch my deer keep dying. I had to start some sort of procedure to try and combat this nasty debilitating disease. At first my actions and methods were very crude and unsuccessful. With a lot of phone calls and some of the best minds in the deer business. They kept telling me several of the same things. But one thing in particular stood out when I had a conversation with one of the greatest minds in the business. I will keep his name unpublished as he has not given me permission to talk about him, so I will do that for his integrity. This is where the story takes it's turn.



This is where the 24" rigid catheter and a 60cc syringe comes in to play.

This gentleman told me I need to break the fever of the animal if I would have any hope of saving them. First the animal must be put to sleep. He stated to put a rigid catheter in the rectal cavity of a sick animal and attach a 60 ccc syringe to the catheter. With the plunger taken out of the 60 cc syringe attach a 5/8" garden hose to the 60cc syringe. Make sure the water pressure is not too high, just a slow steady stream. Fill the Rectal cavity/intestine with the water form the hose (deer absorb water in the intestine, not the stomach, thus the reason we are filling from the rearend not the mouth). Make sure the water is cold. In some areas the water out of a faucet is not cold enough. If you have to, put 2 liter bottles of water in the freezer for about 30 minutes and then squeeze them in to the rectal cavity through the 60 cc syringe and the catheter. This will break the animals fever. What you do next is very critical.



Remember I am not a doctor. This is just solid advise from someone that has used this method and it has worked for me. This is not in any way a cure all for every case. If an animal with symptoms is caught early they can be saved.



Here is what I have done with great success. I do this only on adult deer, not fawns!!!!



Once the animal is down and the catheter is in place with the water flowing, I then administer:



9-10 cc of Dex

6cc of Nuflor Gold

4cc Draxxin

24cc Fortified Vitamin B (It must be fortified!!!) The bottle will say fortified if it is!



This protocol has saved my last 6 deer and I am going to treat another one right now!



Again this will not save them all, I promise, but it is the best fighting chance I have found and I have deer walking that were on deaths door steps. I am sure I will loose the battle on some but I am going to win the battle on some as well. Before I started this protocol I lost every one that contracted EHD?Blue Tongue!!! Now I am proud to say that this ugly disease will be getting a fight from the deer and owner on this ranch!!!! If I did not believe this would work I would not post this on here. I have been through it and have felt the pain and helplessness that many of you have felt. Pleas check your deer often and at any sign that you think may be EHD/Blue Tongue take immediate action, it could mean life or death for your animal.



Good Luck!!!

Eric Pinkston

660.342.5851

Eric, this protocol is somewhat successful on cases of EHD-1, but using it on EHD-2 cases has not proved as successful. Regardless, it is one of a couple of protocols that is somewhat hopeful in saving your deer. Sharing what does and does not work is key to finding the treatment protocol with the best success. Thanks, Scott

Great insight!

glade to hear it's working for you praise the lord . do you know if its ok to give them Fortified Vitamin B in feed or water ( it's the injectable kind in the brown bottle that you refrigerate ) . i have some but don't want to sadate them if i dont have too . i use ivermec injection wormer that i add water and spray on there food . just never tried the injectable Fortified Vitamin B would it hurt them to do something like that ? my 2 bucks that had ehd are not silvaing or chatting there jaws but are walking stiff and looks like they need some energy i added elytrolyes in there water the last 2 days and that seemed to help also i have a bug zapper up and that is really working good killing lots of bugs . any information will be appreciated and congrates again gl

also in the spring i had a doe salivaing and i thought it was wormes because she was really skinny i didn't know anything about ehd then but know i know it was here . she still is alive and the only one that got it in the spring she is still skinny and i tried alot of things to get weight back on her but no luck . any suggestions on how i can get weight back on her ? i did not use dexmethasone or excede or anything lke that because i didn't know it was ehd . thanks

Eric, there is also another tool that works well to reduce the core temp. I have used one of these for years during tranqs in hot weather to prevent overheating. It is a feminine washing bag, commonly called a ****** bag. Fill it with cool water (you cab put ice in it too) and insert the tube gently into the rectum. Using gentle pressure, squeeze the bag and push the water in.

This is just what has worked for us, AS SOON AS YOU SEE ANY SYMPTOMS, dart with 3 cc dex and 3 cc draxxin. I lost 30 deer within a 2 week span and now as soon as I see one that looks off I dart it with these 2 things. It has saved the last 9 out of 9, some snap out of it completely within a day or so and others I've been treating again every other day or whenever I can get close enough, some look rough for a few days but if you can get them treated right away and get them thru the first 48 hours you have great chance of them coming out of it. The fogger that Wayne Green has talked about has been THE LIFE SAVER as far as getting it to STOP. Since I have been fogging and yes there is a HUGE difference in fogging and spraying, I have not had a single one become sick and it's been over a week, before I was to the point of complete exhaustion trying to doctor and spray and worry. I have also been mixing in Tempo with the oil based permethrin-PBO spray so that it sticks to everything it touches, it is a great bug killer that lasts for days and is safe enough to use in your own house. The fogger is so much better then any spray because it covers almost every nook and cranny and is not a water diluted spray that I think was doing nothing but pissing them off. I have a pond behind my enclosure that I know is the breeding area for the midges and I have fogged it over and over and I think I have about wiped them out. Next year I will start fogging earlier in the summer and try and stop the midge before it lays its egs in the mud. The fogger is made by Adapco and the small ATV one is all you need, its small and handy and really doesn't use that much of the chemical, it really is amazing how it works but I reallly believe if you can get them killed before they infect your deer you won't have to go through the doctoring and will cause way less stress on the deer and you. Good luck to all and it's great to here what everyone is trying and finding out what is working for them. For the people that have been hit with it, they know just how helpless it can make you feel when you hit them with everything and nothing works. GET RID OF THE MIDGE AND YOU WILL GET RID OF THE DISEASE....



Cody Warne

Wild Prairie Whitetails

www.warneranches.com

Scott Heinrich said:

Eric, this protocol is somewhat successful on cases of EHD-1, but using it on EHD-2 cases has not proved as successful. Regardless, it is one of a couple of protocols that is somewhat hopeful in saving your deer. Sharing what does and does not work is key to finding the treatment protocol with the best success. Thanks, Scott

Click to expand...

Hi Scott, would you tell me what is the difference is between the two, and are the signs different to tell what type it is. Actually, what are the tell tell signs.

Thank you,

Good advise Cody. One thing that I have also learned is to compound the Dexamethasone into a higher concentration. I have mine built to 24 mg per ml. I want to give them at least 12 mg worth of Dexamethasone in each shot. This really helps if your deer are not bottle fed and you are having to dart them with a gun. Most of the Dexamethasone we use is only 2 mg per ml. So it takes several darts to get the dosage up. With the compounded product you can get enough medication in one dart to treat them. The other real key is react as soon as you even THINK they might be getting it. Don't think they are getting it and tell yourself "I'll wait until tomorrow and see how the deer looks" that one day of delay can cost you the life of your deer. Remember to watch for isolation from the herd, tender feet, licking of lips (fever is starting) and if they let you approach them & get closer than normal, you should medicate them immediately.

The foggers I am selling are on back order for a few weeks. EHD season has put a rush on them. If anyone is interested in getting one I would urge you to call me and get on the waiting list before this order is also sold out.

Good Luck and Good Health to everyone.

What's the cost of the fogger?

X-Factor Whitetails said:

Good advise Cody. One thing that I have also learned is to compound the Dexamethasone into a higher concentration. I have mine built to 24 mg per ml. I want to give them at least 12 mg worth of Dexamethasone in each shot. This really helps if your deer are not bottle fed and you are having to dart them with a gun. Most of the Dexamethasone we use is only 2 mg per ml. So it takes several darts to get the dosage up. With the compounded product you can get enough medication in one dart to treat them. The other real key is react as soon as you even THINK they might be getting it. Don't think they are getting it and tell yourself "I'll wait until tomorrow and see how the deer looks" that one day of delay can cost you the life of your deer. Remember to watch for isolation from the herd, tender feet, licking of lips (fever is starting) and if they let you approach them & get closer than normal, you should medicate them immediately.

The foggers I am selling are on back order for a few weeks. EHD season has put a rush on them. If anyone is interested in getting one I would urge you to call me and get on the waiting list before this order is also sold out.

Good Luck and Good Health to everyone.

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Wayne , so you are darting with 1/2 cc of your 24mg/ml Dex to get 12mg in them?

That's right Kurt. 1/2 cc will give you 12 mg.



Todd, give me a call on the fogger and I'll give you your options and pricing on one.

Thanks Wayne

The fogger is around $2,000 and the bug killer is around $200 or less for 5 gallons and that will spray a big area for a couple weeks depending on how much area your doing. This is what a deer looks like when they get it, puffy swollen eyes and drool coming out of the mouth. It can hit them fast, they can look good in the morning and dead that evening, if you can check them 3 times a day you can have a good chance of seeing the first signs and knocking the hemoraging out with the Dex. This is a yearling buck that we lost this year before we started using the Dex.

I'll try give you a call this week Wayne.

Thanks!

Glenn Dice and myself are traveling back from Alabama where we had very informative session with Dr Lee from ARS. He presented a very imformative presentation reguarding EHD. Glenn and I had the morning to pick his brain privately for some very good candid information. He presented ways to prevent and control EHD midges. He is a midge nerd! As Glenn and I make our way home, and for the. record I finally got his AZZ in the drivers seat, we recommed anyone wanting to learn more about this serious issue set up a learning session for your state.

I would to thank ADA for allowing us to come and learn.

As we drive home and discuss some of his insight we have already identified issues we have at our own farms and know how to remedy this potential issues.

Can you let us in on some of these remedies please??

sure anytime

Not sure I get that answer? I just thought you might let a lot of the farmers on here that are struggling with EHD know what you found out.........maybe it's a secret......I don't know.......was just asking.

No secrets here. I've had a few phone calls as did Glenn for some insight and its Just the response I guess I expected from YOU DD! Understand many of the products that might be used are off label and is or I should say warned not to openly recommend use. I can say you need identify the source of the breeding population..they need moisture/ mud to breed/populate....identify source try and eliminate that source and get youself a barrier put in place ....examples of a barrier could be spraying/fogging/misting. Maybe using shade cloth treating for midge fly to land on and kill. Most important step if your spraying .....it should be done sun upand sun down when midge are most active. Those just some of the things for prevention. MUD MUD MUD GET CONTROL OF IT WHETHER INSIDE YOUR PEN OR OUTSIDE PENS ....they need moist dirt to populate.

I absolutely recommend this seminar for everyone who might be affected by EHD/BT. Very good education....

We are in Tenn still traveling home..... check that Virginia .....out of our pockets and our family time. Now we need to prepare for our PA sale to be successful this week.



Hope to see ya there DD



Also for the record..... Dice is still behind the wheel.....NEW RECORD for him to drive....he must like driving my wifes minivan..lol

How much are you paying Glenn to drive?..We know he will do anything for a dollar..that's the only way he will drive..lol