fencing advice

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Joined
Apr 5, 2014
Messages
30
Location
Reform AL
I need some advice on putting up fencing myself, best advice for corner post and any advice on 4x4's vs t-post, also stretching fence, thanks for your help.
 
Best advice = hire an expert.


Insist on doing it yourself?

Pressure treated round machined posts for corners if not all of it.

Use "H" braces and I would suggest double H's.

Wire to the inside of the posts including in the corners. If you don't know how then at least make sure guide wires are covered to avoid racks and necks getting snagged.

Make sure wire is TIGHT to the ground.

Really think out how you want the gates hung to maximize their use when moving animals around.

Plan for expansion.

Use good staples not those cheap ones that pullout easy.
 
Use round post.  Not 4x4's.  They are not cut from the heart and will look like bananas when the sun hits them.  Believe me, I used 4x4s on my first pen and they look like sh$t!!!  Also do not concrete in wooden post, they will rot off at the ground in no time.  If possible used get used oil field pipe.  That is much better.
 
Even for a do-it-yourselfer, this is a task best left to professionals. Make sure your fence is on the inside of the posts and your brace wires are on the outside. Use pressure treated 12 foot posts, pound them in, and build your H braces properly. Better yet build a smaller pen that is easier on the budget and take the extra money and hire someone.
 
I will gladly give you my advice also if you have questions. I'd love to install it for you but I'm afraid u will need to move a little closer! Call me if you have questions.


Jesse
 
Deerchaser948431405950557



Use round post.  Not 4x4's.  They are not cut from the heart and will look like bananas when the sun hits them.  Believe me, I used 4x4s on my first pen and they look like sh$t!!!  Also do not concrete in wooden post, they will rot off at the ground in no time.  If possible used get used oil field pipe.  That is much better.




Yes round pressure treated machined posts. That was what I meant but I wasn't clear at first. 4x4's will be junk in no time.
 
Brett

Is it necessary to buy the steel caps for each post when using the oil field pipe? Wondering how much longer it makes the post last? Are the caps worth the money?
 
I used oil field pipe on mine just stuff a little paper in the top about on to two inches inside and fill with concrete top off later with paint mine has been up 10 years now no problems yet T&S
 
I have never done this but, I think spray foam isulation and paint. If you don't have caps.
 
GATES........................Yep........................Plenty of GATES!! The One Expense you will NEVER regret!
 
Thanks for all your input, everything is greatly appreciated,any more comments will be a lot of help,Thanks! 
 
Bell948541405960656



Brett

Is it necessary to buy the steel caps for each post when using the oil field pipe? Wondering how much longer it makes the post last? Are the caps worth the money?




I dont cap mine.  Probably wrong but i figure the will rust out in the ground first anyway.  There are oil field pipes here that have been up for 30 years and still holding.
 
Brett

Thanks, the caps add several dollars to the cost of each post.
 
Brett, Do you use the pipe for your corners as well or do you use the wooden round posts for corners?
Also in your opinion is the pipe posts easier to handle than the wood posts. You think they pound in easier than the wood posts?
I also have to put fencing up and I have been debating whether to use pipe or wood. I have rocky ground, any thought which one would be better to use? Thanks Speeny
 
I have some pipe post pens and some wooden post pens...................Here in Mo. 2 yrs drought moved the Pipe pens more and less on the Wooden post pens. 


Wooden to me are easier to build........Welding is not my strong point.......Pipe pens and caped poles with 3" wire looks awesome in my opinion .................But here it more expensive to build. 
 
I have used both wood and steel. These are my observations.  The wooden posts tend to heave out of the ground. They don't come out they just move more in the spring time than the steel ones do. I didn't drive any. I augered and cement/tamped all of them so far. For the corner posts (3"), and the first ones off of the corners (also 3") get a couple of bags of cement. I "H" brace them together, and brace diagonally to the first line post.  For the line posts (2-3/8") I just tamp and mix in a half of a bag of cement. I know of a guy that installs chain link fencing, and he drives the steel ones with a Rhino post driver, and says he can drive 100 or more in a day(2 guys). I have never witnessed this, and would be impressed to see it. I Think that galvanized steel would last the longest. I have bought reject galvanized fence post last year for just over a $1 a foot. They were 2-3/8" od x .109 wall x 21' (I cut them in half and used 8' chain link fence). When I checked I think that non galvanized drill pipe would cost around the same, but it would be heavier wall thickness.They make twist clips for these post also. I have smashed my thumb more times than I would ever admit trying to drive staples into round wooden posts ( I know,I know, Hire a professional).
 
Telephone poles make great fence posts :) oh and a paslode fence stapler saves your fingers!!!
 
Pipe is way easier to drive if you have a pounder. I drove one through a stump. The hardest part is cutting the pipe.. Galvanized pipe at $12 a piece is a great price and should work good. I can drive a 100 a day.
 
I use locust I cut myself on our property. I cut 10" diameter post. We have some of our original cow fences with these big posts and they are 20 years old and still not rotted off.

I am however interested in trying used drilling pipe if I can ever find it. I could rent a post pounder for my bobcat and drive them in pretty good.
 
Thank you all for the info it is greatly appreciated. Thanks again Scott
Brett, Where are you finding pipe for $12.00 a piece ?
 

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