Cheap do it yourselft thermal fogger

all i used was permectrin pour on with mineral oil about 1/2 gal pour on to 1/4 mineral oil

How far can you make that gallon go? Because my math puts the cost for a gallon is $20-23.00 so how far can we stretch that!

at 50 milliliter of permethrin {50 mill.= to 1.69 0z.} per gallon of mixture my calculation is approx. $.94 per gallon of mixture not figuring the cost of mineral oil or any other carrier cost of permethrin approx. $100. per 1.25 gallons so at 50 mill. you could make 94 gallons of mix with 1.25 gallons of perm. mixed at 50 mill. per gallon

Just thought I would share how I made my fogger today. First, I'm not a plumber or anything close, so I went to a mom and pop specialty plumbing supply store and told the guy what I was attempting to do. I just used plastic bucket for the holding tank so he gave me a fitting to make a water tight seal on the bottom of the bucket when I drilled the hole in it. Next he gave me a fitting that attached to the one that came out of the bottom of the bucket which had a valve on it so I could regulate the flow. From there, I attached 1/4 plastic tubing for about a foot which then ran into 1/4 copper tubing. The plumbing guy provided all the fittings for these attachments. Lastly, I drilled a hole in the exhaust about 4 inches from the motor and tapped it out. I screwed a fitting into the hole and attached the copper tubing via a fitting he provided.



I tried the mix with water and it did not work but when I mixed it with diesel, it worked like a charm. I think I fogged everyone's property within a mile of my house.



Thanks for starting this thread!

What I was saying was the cheapest gallon of mineral oil I could find was like 16.00 then add another $2.00 of permethrin and my math puts is at 18.00 a gallon..... How far will the gallon go? Or are we just using diesel fuel and permethrin at a total of $6.00 a gallon? So what's the gallon to acre ratios and the mix everyone is using

Hey guys, good luck on your fogger. I sell the Guardian E-55 ULV COLD fogger, but I'm more than happy to help out with what I know about fogging and chemicals. First off if you're going to put the time, effort and resources into saving your deer then here is what you need to know. First of all you need to fog with a Permethrin / PBO-8 chemical, not straight Permethrin. Buy you a concentrated chemical that is at leat 30% Permethrin and 60% PBO-8. You can mix 10 ounces of this with a gallon of oil and you will have a gallon of chemical that is then reduced to 3% Permethrin and 6% PBO-8. I would not fog with less than this strength or your chemicals starts to become to weak to kill the midge flies. Just so you know a gallon of PBO-8 alone probably cost $150, Permethrin is half that price. A premixed chemical of 30/60% will cost about $200 a gallon. Add the cost of the oil and you will probably have $25 to $30 in a gallon of mixed chemicals. I'm not wanting to start a pissing match here, I'm just giving you the facts that were given to me by the Entomologist that have studied the midge flies. It's kind of like hunting, make sure your gun is big enough for the game your hunting. You can fog up a storm but if the mix is to weak you are not killing the midge flies.

Here is a simple explanation of why you need PBO-8. Permethrin is a ball of fire you are trying to kill the midge fly with, PBO-8 is a ball of gas you are throwing on the fire, the two combust and you kill the midge fly. They will become resistant to straight permethrin.

The next part of the equation that throws you a curve ball is the thermal fog that is produced from the exhaust, you will get the appearance of a lot of fog because it is heated. A gallon of chemicals dispensed in a cold fog is the same amount of chemicals that are dispensed in a heated fog. A gallon is a gallon you just don't see the cold fog as easy. Like boiling water you can see the steam more than a fine mist of cold water.

Next keep in mind that you are going to burn up some of your chemicals when you heat it up in the exhaust which may reduce the actual amount of chemical you distribute. I have no idea what that will equate too. You would think that some of the chemical is wasted during the process because it is evaporated by the heat. This is why cold foggers were built to replace many of the thermal foggers they use less chemicals.

Good luck I understand that we all need to fit a budget plan into our farm plan to make things work. Call or email if you have any questions or if I can help you with chemicals or oil.

Anyone with updated pics or formulas?

Guys, I think you need to understand what Wayne is saying. I'm not saying your fogger won't work to a point but a ULV fogger doesn't work on heat. The ULV fogger is run on high air pressure atomizing the chemical. Your exhaust fogger looks to me like it more less is creating smoke from the burnt diesel and chemicals. You can smoke em all you want but your likely ruining the chemical in the process. Even if your trying to get by cheaper, you would probably be better off with an air compressor type home built system. With the ULV foggers your putting out a straight mix of oil and undamaged chemical that will travel in the air a long ways if its cool out and the air is settling (evenings). All a ulv fogger does is suck a small amount of liquid and forces it thru a tiny hole with air pressure and it atomizes it so small that it floats in the air like smoke. A midge cannot fly near it without getting a fatal hit if you use the right chemicals as Wayne talked about. Im sure smoke will make em leave for awhile just like a campfire does but as soon as your not there, they are back, pissed and hungry :angry: I've had deer dying from EHD as fast as I could haul em out of the pens at times and the day I got the ULV fogger Wayne sells, It completely stopped it. I never lost another one that year in my breeding pens and I continued to loose over a hundred wild ones at my farm 20 miles away all the way into late October. You have to be able to go to the pond sources and fog them during the day while the midge is on the mud and in the cattails. If you just do the pens, chances are some of the midges are already in with your deer in between foggings. Just my experiences.

I also have one of Wayne's foggers.  Last year outside my fence 90 plus % of the wild deer died from EHD.  The lower place had 200 head of wild deer on it.  Only 7 deer were left after EHD hit them.  We fogged morning and night and only lost 5 deer out of 160 head inside the fence.  I will not fix what isn't broken just to save some money.  Just think what I would have lost if 90% of my deer died from EHD.  FYI