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fawn information

Joined Sep 2012
185 Posts | 0+
Hannibal, MO
This is my first year raising deer.

I am looking for any and all you want to share about fawn's.

With it being my first fawn season. What all will I need to have on hand to

take care of my fawns?

Ear tag's - what works best?

Bottle, milk,dry mix, meds?

Will the doe have a problem when you remove the fawn?

Will I need to med the doe after the fawn is born or removed from her?

I thank you for all your help



Brent Thomure
 
Robert said:
go into coumper an typ in how to raise fawns.and read all you can before fawns are born.there is a world of learning.you can also get books no this subject...iv`e raised fawn on the bottle for thirty years.visit other deer farmers who do this.it`s better to let them with there mom unless you have the time to spend with them.



yup better off WITH mom , BUT buyers want bottle fed does . if you pull the fawns kiss your summer good by, CHECK out todd morgon @ white tail exchc, and look up fawns
 
Brent Thomure said:
This is my first year raising deer.

I am looking for any and all you want to share about fawn's.

With it being my first fawn season. What all will I need to have on hand to

take care of my fawns?

Ear tag's - what works best?

Bottle, milk,dry mix, meds?

Will the doe have a problem when you remove the fawn?

Will I need to med the doe after the fawn is born or removed from her?

I thank you for all your help



Brent Thomure



Brent, give me a call, I sell items that you will need
 
Brent,

I don't like ear tags at that young of age as the fawns head is small and they will rip out the ear tag when they pull back from sticking their head in the wire. Instead I tattoo them with their own number which will stay in the ear for life if done right. This way there is always a check if the fawn loses a tag or any other ID later in life.
 
I take my fawn's from the doe at a day old. I will pull them in the evening and dont try to get them to take the bottle until the next morning. Dont try to over feed them and dont panic if they wont take the bottle at first. You can find a lot of info on amount's and time's to feed if you search. Just remember the amount's per feeding you find may be great for some and other's may want more some way less. I would not try to force any more down them than they want. I would rather under feed a little than over feed.



I use red cap milk with 1 cup or replacer mixed with it. I would have a bottle of Albon ready. I use Albon the first 2 or 3 day's and any time after that they seem a bit loose. I mix probiotic's in every bottle, Shock Effect has a good one to mix with the milk. Add fresh dirt, fresh clover after 6 or 7 day's old. At birth I give a E Coli antibody and a coupe vacination's. And keep a bag of colostrum around, you never know when you might need it.



If you have a real protective mother keep your eye on her when you are messing with her fawn's, I have never had one do any more than a bluff charge but had a friend get hit hard last year by a doe.



Call Henery at Streamilne or Whitetail sale's, they will have the bottle's and most of the thing's that you will need.
 
We use micro chips for our ID and a small ear tag. We don't do any bottle feeding if we can help it. Deer that are not bottle fed will move through a handling system a lot better. You can get them fairly tame as well by throwing treats regularly so they get used to people.
 
DO as much Research as possible, take any and all advise offered as openly minded as you can. When you have a system that works for you STICK with it! Try new ideas on things if its not working out in your favor its probably a great sign from the Lord above to try something else! Get a very reliable automatic spray system installed that covers each pen around and down your whole facility, a fogger to go on your atv that can assist in the prevention of insects , keep stocked up on tenguard and permithrin (trust me youll find out very quickly why I say that). DONT be scared to ask a million questions because If i think someone else has an answer I need...I ASK! It is literally a matter of minutes some times that determines life or death in deer so having as much information as possible for reference is handy. If you would like I can email you a list that I have used that is extremely helpful. It consists of a break down on medications to keep on hand, dosages & what they are used to treat etc. You will NEED to have all of these medications on hand at all times, or at least in my experience the worst scenerio will happen if I dont have everything on hand!! Thats just one paragraph into the lives of us Deer farmers! lol! Welcome to the industry. You wont find a closer knit group of better people around in one lifetime that you will being a deer farmer! Everyone is here to help so hold on tight and get ready for the experience of a lifetime! Best regards, Shanna W.
 
Brent Thomure said:
What all will I need to have on hand to

take care of my fawns?

Ear tag's - what works best?

Bottle, milk,dry mix, meds?

Will the doe have a problem when you remove the fawn?

Will I need to med the doe after the fawn is born or removed from her?



Brent Thomure



A few hours after they're born I take them outside of the pen. We use a large, bright colored, blank ear tag that I write the fawns ID number on and the initials of our farm. I write the number on front and back. In hindsight I'm not sure that using that big of a tag is the best option as it is much easier to get caught and ripped. One trick we use on the farm is putting the female eartags in their left ear and they have odd numbers. Males have eartags in their right ear and they have even numbers. This makes it nice because at a glance, at paper work or in the field, you can identify them quicker.

I also use a microchip from EZ-ID they're only ten dollars each and I plant the chip on the under side of the tail underneath the skin. We collect some DNA by twisting some rump hair and pulling it out then placing it in a plastic bag and labeling it with the fawns name and ID. They get a shot of vitamin B and probiotics before they are returned back to mama doe.

When the doe fawns are two days old (so all of the colostrum processed) we take them and and put them in 2'x2' stalls and feed them at 7am, 3pm, and 11pm. Whole milk heated to 110 ish degrees, until it's warm on your wrist but not to hot. I keep track of how many ounces each fawn eats at every feeding. One thing I learned is that they won't drink it when it's too hot and they won't drink if it's too cold.

I just found a PDF. about fawn care through a Penn State study www.ildfa.com/images/Fawn_Care_Guidelines_Dr.pdf I haven't seen the whole thing but it looks worth a read!

Well, that's what we do on our farm! I hope it helped some!
 
I have three tech bulletins I would be happy to share on

Fawn care, Prevention of Scouring and Feed Management. You can email me at [email protected] and I can email them to you. SUperior Milk Replacer scientifically formulated our milk replacer from an actual sample of doe's milk. It has 33% protein and 30% fat. I would love to have your business.